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Hyaluronic Acid has been one of the popular skincare ingredients that everyone’s talking about in recent years. Well, chances are you’re already using it in some form or another in one of your favourite skincare products — look for either Hyaluronic Acid or Sodium Hyaluronate on the label.

When used in skincare products like serums and moisturisers, hyaluronic acid helps to retain moisture and can aid with anti-ageing, now who doesn’t want that?

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a carbohydrate naturally produced in the human body that helps to retain the moisture our skin and joints need. This gel-like water-holding molecule is a humectant and can hold up to 1000x its own weight in water.

What does it do?

Scientific studies have shown that Hyaluronic Acid helps:

• improve skin hydration so it appears soft and plumped
• maintain skin elasticity which means the appearance of lines and wrinkles are lessened
• fight free radicals thanks to its antioxidant properties
• wound healing with its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties

Different Types of Hyaluronic Acid

1. Molecule sizes

There are various sizes of molecular weight in the Hyaluronic Acid family, in general, you have high, low and ultra-low molecules.

• High molecular weight HA moisturises skin and improves its elasticity, however, it stays on the surface of the skin and doesn’t penetrate the skin so there’s very little long term effect
• Low molecular weight HA has a better chance to absorb into the skin and reap more benefits of skin hydration and reduce lines and wrinkles as well as anti-inflammatory. It has a more lasting effect.
• Ultra-low molecular HA, on the other hand, is a questionable ingredient as it shows signs of pro-inflammatory as it penetrates deep into your skin.

Unfortunately, there is no way to determine molecular weight from ingredients list only. Oftentimes manufacturers would make a point in highlighting different molecule sizes (but still not disclosing the actual value) in their marketing literature so you can keep an eye on that.

2. Different names

When you look at the ingredients list you may see names such as Glycosaminoglycan, Hyaluran, Hyaluronan, Hyaluronate Sodium, Hylan or Sodium Hyaluronate as well as Hydrolysed Hyaluronic Acid.

As HA is known to have a large molecular weight and does not penetrate the skin, hydrolysing (breaking it down via a chemical reaction with water) can reduce the HA molecule size.

Sodium Hyaluronate is probably the most common one, it’s a salt form of HA. It has a lower molecular weight than HA and hydrolysed HA, so it’s more easily absorbed into the skin.

Where does Hyaluronic Acid come from?

Hyaluronic acid can be obtained in several different ways –  biologically through the synthesis by fibroblasts, synthetically and naturally from plant and wheat fermentation. The quality of hyaluronic acid can vary depending on its form and purpose of use, but its molecular structure is always the same regardless of the source.

So, please note that if a product doesn’t specifically labelled as vegan or non-animal derived, it probably comes from an animal source.

Which skin type suits hyaluronic acid?

Suitable for all skin types including sensitive and oily skins but it’s particularly beneficial for those dry or dehydrated skin types.

How to use hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid needs to be used with a moisturiser and ideally apply on damp skin. If your skin is already dry, it will draw moisture from the deeper layers of skin, bringing it to the surface and potentially make it worse. You can also try the ‘sandwich’ with mist approach i.e. mist your skin, then apply HA, then mist again and then carry on with the rest of your skincare routine.

Products I’m loving

Indeed Labs — Hydraluron™ moisture serum

This serum has a relatively short ingredients list. It claims to use the pure form of hyaluronic acid, meaning it is 100% free from animal-derived raw materials and organic solvent remnants, ensuring your skin is being fed pure and kind ingredients for maximum benefit. It also contains Red Marine Algae – a nutrient-rich mineral that stimulates cell turnover and circulation, boosting hyaluronic acid’s ability to penetrate the skin’s surface at a deeper level.

It’s a fragrance-free, oil-free and silicone-free very lightweight gel formula, packaged in a travel-friendly squeezy tube. A pea size is more than enough for the whole face. (Because of its relatively thin texture sometimes you end up squeezing out more than you need, so just be gentle) I don’t find this sticky or tacky. Once it’s applied, it absorbs very quickly and the skin feels immediately hydrated.

What’s in it?

Ingredient Listing: Water, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol.

Available: Standard size £24.99/30ml – UK (LookFantastic)*

First Aid Beauty — Ultra Repair Hydrating Serum

This serum is from First Aid Beauty’s Ultra Repair range, one of my favourite line that’s designed for all skin types, even the most sensitive and easily irritated. I’ve enjoyed all of their products and this is no different.

This clear gel serum is formulated with Colloidal Oatmeal, along with Aloe Leaf Juice, help calm and soothe irritated skin for an allover healthy-looking and feeling complexion. Peptides and Collagen can help minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles so skin appears more plumped and smoothed in texture. 

It’s a fragrance-free, oil-free water-based formula. Its viscosity is a little bit thicker than Indeed Labs’, but not much. There’s also a very mild tacky feel on application but once it’s absorbed (which is just as quick as Indeed Labs), there’s no residual tacky feel. Skin feels soothed and moisturised.

Oh and it has a pump in a plastic bottle, so it’s easier to gauge how much product to apply. I find half a pump to 1 pump is a good amount.

What’s in it?

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydrating Serum Ingredients

Ingredient Listing: Aqua (Water, Eau), Glycerin, Soluble Collagen, Methyl Gluceth-20, Colloidal Oatmeal, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Allantoin, Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium PCA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Nitrate, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate, EDTA, Glyoxal.

Available: Standard size £28/30ml – UK (LookFantastic)*

Skin Regimen — HA booster

A hydrating serum with a concentrate of three forms of hyaluronic acid – Micro, Macro and Cross-linked – to infuse the skin, lock in moisture at various levels and restore optimal levels of hydration. Additional ingredients such as Wild Indigo, Maqui Berry, Organic Spinach and Carnosine to counteract the effects of stress and ageing accelerators.

It’s a fragrance-free, oil-free and silicone-free formula. It’s ultra-lightweight, very runny consistency, probably the thinnest I’ve come across. It comes with a dropper glass bottle, apply 3 – 5 drops are enough for the whole face. There’s a bit tacky feel but soon disappears. Once it’s applied, it absorbs very quickly and the skin feels immediately hydrated.

What’s in it?

Ingredient Listing: Aqua /​ Water /​ Eau, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract, Carnosine, Spinacia Oleracea (Spinach) Leaf Extract*, Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, Citric Acid, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Available: Standard size £76/25ml – UK (FeelUnique)*

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